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After over a millennium of development, your rind would be a little wrinkled, too. This pasteurized goat’s milk cylinder—called a “bonde” in the world of French cheesemaking—made its debut in eighth-century France, just south of the Loire in Poitou. The lush vegetation of Poitou is a browsing goat’s delight, and the grassiness shines through in Chabichou’s luscious creamline, tucked just beneath the rind. From a region where the soil is characteristically chalky and this name-protected cheese is decidedly not, Chabichou prances on the palate with flavors of lemon zest, tempered by a deep minerality and the texture of creamy boardwalk fudge. Add a glass of terroir-appropriate Sancerre and toast to the classics.